Tech Tip:  Belt Deflection (Tension)

Belt deflection is very critical for proper clutch performance. If your deflection is too tight, the belt will burn on the clutch hub and you will lose top end. If the belt is too loose, it will allow the primary clutch to upshift faster then the secondary clutch causing a low end bog and poor performance.

To check your belt deflection, you will need a straight edge and a tape measure. Normally you want your belt to stick out of the secondary clutch 1/16" - 1/8" if possible. Lay a straight edge on the belt and measure the distance between the straight edge and the belt between the two clutches. Lightly press down on the belt to remove any slack. Most machines use a spec of 1 1/8" to 1 1/4" of belt deflection. If you measure less than 1 1/8", your belt is too tight. If you measure more than 1 1/4" your belt is too loose. This procedure should be shown in your owners or service manual.

Factory specs are: Polaris 1 1/4".


Tech Tip:  How Over-Sized Tires Affect Clutching

Oversized tires have a lot of benefits, such as better traction and performance and greater ground clearance. The down fall to these tires is loss in power, throttle response, and increased belt slippage.

Usually, oversized tires weigh more than the stock tires the machine is set up for. It will take more power to turn the extra weight. This is where it helps to use lighter weight rims.

Most oversized tires will offer more aggressive tread, which will make it harder for the motor to turn the tires. Even if the tires and rims are lighter than your stock tires, they will still start out in a higher gear ratio due to the taller tire. With the extra weight, traction, and height there is an increased strain on the clutch system causing belt slippage.

The good news is your clutches can be adjusted to help compensate for oversized tires. An  Hot Ride Clutch Kit is specially designed for machines with larger, more aggressive tires. This kit will grip your belt better, give you better backshift and throttle response, and more low-end and midrange power. These kits work great and allow you to get the most out of your machine.

Tech Tip:  Cleaning your clutches

Keeping your clutches clean will help improve your performance and save wear and tear on your clutches. Lightly sand your clutch sheaves (faces) with fine sand paper or emery cloth. The direction you must sand is from the center out to the edge. Work your way around both sheaves.

DO NOT sand any grooves into the clutch sheaves.

Sanding the sheaves will remove belt residue and give the belt a better surface to grip. Once you are done sanding, blow off any sanding dust from both clutches. Take contact or brake cleaner and clean the entire clutch EXCEPT for the bushings. Do not use contact cleaner on any of the clutch bushings. Choose a contact cleaner that does not leave an oily film when it dries. Wipe the bushings off with a clean, dry cloth.

Remember, the clutches are considered a dry part. No oil or grease is required. The inside hub of the helix is the only area where a small amount of grease may be applied.



Tech Tip:  Helix and Secondary Spring Installation
(for Polaris UTV's)

1. Install spring tab into proper hole in the clutch.

2. Install helix by inserting the spring tab into the proper hole in the helix. Our helixes normally have a number 1 stamped by the number 1 hole position in the helix.

3a. For snowmobiles - Push helix down 1/2" to 3/4" on shaft. Align the key way on the clutch shaft and the helix and install the key. DO NOT push helix all the way down the shaft.

4. Hold bottom half of clutch and helix from moving. Rotate the top half of the clutch counterclockwise approximately 1/3 turn. You need to locate the buttons in the clutch and rotate them past the next ramp of the helix.

5. Push helix down and install washer (if necessary) and install snap ring. Rotate snap ring so open end is opposite of the key slot in the helix.

6. Put clutch back on machine and check for proper preload tension.


Tech Tip:  Primary (Drive) Clutch Removal

1. Spray a light coating of spray lubricant on the clutch puller before you install puller.

2. Remove the primary clutch bolt and thread clutch puller in by hand. DO NOT use air impact on puller, it can cause thread damage. If puller does not thread in by hand DO NOT force puller in. Remove puller and inspect clutch and look for any obstructions.

3. Prevent the clutch from rotating by using a factory tool or a small bar. Make sure the tool will not cause damage when force is applied.

4. Using a hand tool, not air, tighten puller until clutch pops off the crankshaft. If the clutch doesn't come off easily, lightly tap on the end of the puller with a wrench or smaller hammer. DO NOT use extreme force. Contact your dealer if the clutch does not come off engine using reasonable torque.

5. Once clutch is off, unthread the puller and service clutch.

6. To install the primary clutch back on the machine, place the clutch on the crankshaft, thread the bolt in by hand and tighten the bolt to the manufacturer's recommendations.

7. Manufactures clutch belt torque specs:

Polaris UTV PCP-1 45-47 ft/lbs.


Tech Tip:  ATV Clutch Heat

Several different things can cause your clutches to over heat and cause poor performance and/or part failure. These problems can show up on any brand with automatic belt driven transmissions. The three most common causes are belt slippage, plugged vent lines, and homemade snorkel kits.

When the clutches slip the belt, this will cause extra heat in the belt and clutches and a loss in performance. Belt slippage can happen when the clutches are over worked. Pulling heavy loads, larger tires, using high range in extreme conditions, improper clutch set up and incorrect belt deflection can cause belt slippage. Clutch kits are available through Hot Ride to help fix some these problems. Other problems be can fixed by changing riding styles, using low range in extreme conditions, and proper maintenance.

Another over looked cause of clutch heat is plugged vent lines. Grass, dirt, mud, and mice can get into some of the vent lines for your clutch housings. This causes heat to build up and does not let the cool air in. Mice can build nests that block the vent line when machines are stored for any amount of time. The clutch system will then run hot and eventually over heat. Whenever any clutch work is being done be sure to check for any vent line blockage or if you notice extra clutch heat.

Home made snorkel kits or breather kits for clutch housings may keep the water out but also keep the heat in. When using a snorkel kit it is imperative that you maintain adequate ventilation for your clutches. Reduction of diameter, lengthening, incorporating multiple bends, or modifying the vent tube will result in increased heat build up in the clutch housing and damage may occur.
 




Tech Tip:  Progressive vs. Compound Radius Helixes

The main difference between a true progressive helix and a compound radius progressive helix is the way the ramp angles are cut on the helix. For example, a 50-36 true progressive helix has a 50 degree angle at the top of the ramp and a 36 degree angle at the bottom of the ramp and the angles between are divided equally between the top and the bottom. A 50-36 compound radius progressive helix will start at 50 degrees at the top of the ramp and stay in a straight 50 degree angle for an 1/8 to 3/4 of an inch down the ramp (depending on brand and style) and then progress very fast to the ending angle of 36 degrees. Each style has it own advantages and disadvantages.

There any many different combinations and sizes of progressive style helixes. The right one for you depends on where and how you plan to ride and what sled you are riding. Here are some basic characteristics of the different styles of helixes.

A true progressive helix will normally have a faster and more consistent backshift through the low end and mid-range. We would normally choose this style for all around trail riding. A compound radius progressive can give you a harder holeshot from a dead stop and may accelerate harder but it will not normally backshift as fast and be as responsive on and off the gas once you are moving. These helixes are good for drag racing or straight line acceleration.

Helix angles also effect the all around performance on both styles of helixes. For example; the steeper the angles, both the beginning and ending, the faster the clutch will up-shift and accelerate, but it will have a slower backshift and throttle response. Smaller angles create a slower up-shift and a faster backshift. Depending on your riding style, people that want a good all around set-up would use smaller helix angles then someone who just cares about racing across the lake or field.

Helix angles can be deceiving and confusing for the following reason. A 50-36 true progressive will accelerate harder the a 50-36 compound radius with a real short 50 degree angle (like a OEM Polaris helix) because the true progressive helix stays in a steeper angle longer through the mid range. This is why it is important to know how long a compound radius helix is in a certain angle.

As stated before, there are many different styles and uses for the different kinds of helixes depending on what performance and handling you are looking to achieve. If you need help choosing the correct helix for your application please call Hot Ride.
 






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  • * Disclaimer: There are inherent risks involved in using any product, including but not limited to: serious physical injury. This product is intended for experienced adults over 18 years of age. The Seller will not be held liable under any circumstance for incidental or consequential loss or damage or injury, due directly or indirectly by the use of this product, including any malfunction from negligence or defect or there of. The seller makes no claims as to the suitability of this product for any specific purpose or use. Buyer understands that the use of the product can cause injury to themselves or others. The Buyer holds the seller and affiliates harmless from any liability arising out of or relating to the use or ownership of any product . Buyer fully accepts responsibility & releases the seller for all & any personal injuries, fatal injuries, any losses, costs, and damages incurred as a result of Buyer or anyone else operation of this item. Purchaser of Safety Equipment assumes all liability. Said products will be used in accordance for which they were intended. Use of product does not guarantee safety. It is merely a device to aid in visibility during its use. It is the responsibility of the user to practice safe riding procedures. Hot Ride is not liable for any damage or injury caused by our products.

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